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It's Wednesday, November 8th, and I am seated at one of the two dial-up computers at the Riverview Hotel in Thimpu. Thimpu, the capitol city of Bhutan, home to the king and his four wives. The king lives by choice in a log cabin while his four wives each have their own palaces, but I digress. Next to me is one of the people from the
Crane Foundation trip, and he's equally frustrated with dial-up, but we want election results. It's Tuesday November 7 back in the states. Our guide walks into the room and says "Only Democrats seem to come to Bhutan." Then he laughs and leaves us to our search. My neighbor says "We've got the House, we've got the governors, what's with the Senate?" At dinner, our three little groups have a victory party.
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Bhutan is the last Bhuddist Kingdom in the Himalayas. Their form of Bhuddism is Tantric Bhuddism, and our guide keeps telling me that the highest form of enlightenment is sex without desire. Then he giggles. He tells me that penises are on the exterior of every home as a way to keep the ego in check. Think about this, gentlemen. If I have to explain, well, it spoils the fun.
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Two and one half hotels have elevators in Bhutan. The half is being constructed. I climbed stairs, and more stairs, and then more stairs. I hiked at elevation, I rode a horse at elevation, and climbed more stairs. In nine days, I rode on one elevator, and that was when I did a hotel site inspection. Who needs a stairmaster? Let me send you to Bhutan!
For some reason, blogger is limiting me to three images on this post. I will have to publish others later. The Dzongs, fortresses with both a government and monastic section are imposing features scattered around the country. Chillies drying on rooftops, or next to doorways. Celebrations of the king's birthday with dancers and games. The Black Necked Crane Festival in the Phojbika Valley (at 9000 feet, I found it hard to call it a valley.) Forests of prayer flags along mountain passes, rivers, streams.
Bhutan doesn't have a GNP. Instead, they measure their GNH: Gross National Happiness factor. A very poor country, but somehow people are happy, cheerful, friendly. They are at peace with themselves, for the most part. In 2008, the king is retiring and his oldest son (first wife's son), the Crown Prince, will ascend the throne in what will become a strictly ceremonial role. The king has decided Bhutan needs an elected government, so along with his retirement, the Bhutanese will vote for the first time. And as he moves his country toward a more modern direction, the king has encouraged improvements to the infrastructure. Currently, roads (which are hand-built) are almost all one-lane, twisting, death traps through this extremely mountainous country. I watched crews of Indian workers breaking rocks along the roadside as roads are being widened. Several luxury hotels are coming in, or have already been built: Aman Resorts have a group scattered strategically around the country; the Uma Paro is part of our hotel group; Taj is putting a property in Thimpu.
But travel is controlled. Mountaineering is not permitted after yak herders complained: after Jimulhari, the highest peak in Bhutan (24,000+ feet) was climbed, yaks began to die, avalanches killed yak herders, illnesses crept in. The government outlawed mountaineering. You may not travel independently in Bhutan: you must have a visa, and a guide at all times. And while there are many cheap hotels and guest-houses, backpackers are discouraged.
The air is clean. Trash is limited. Dogs are feral and everywhere. Mountains, forests, rivers, birds - I saw a white-bellied heron, one of only twenty left. I saw the most beautiful hornbill. I saw other birds I can't name. And of course, the black-necked crane, making a comeback - up to about 150 now.
I recognize how lucky I am to be able to travel as much as I do. Yes, it's a part of my job as a travel agent, but so many of my collegues limit their travels to easy destinations that I wonder why they bother. This was not an easy trip. Nothing was familiar, but everything was inspiring. I live at sea level, so I was short of breath for the entire trip, but my god, did my butt get a workout on those stairs! And everywhere I turned, it was beautiful, inspiring, and amazing. Bhutan is the next really hot destination - and only a handful of travel professionals will be able to send people there with any real knowledge. I'm still processing this trip, it was so exotic, I don't have words for all of what I feel. But my heart feels at peace, and I know that comes from this trip.